My Visits to The Amer Fort
I've been to the Amer Fort in Jaipur several times but have never bothered much about the names of the various courtyards, rooms, or intricate architectural marvels. I often regret my earlier disregard for history. Now, I sometimes need to visit a site three or four times because no one pays me or assigns me a writer or research assistant. When I am a rich, famous, fat photographer and writer, I will hire an intelligent and attractive assistant -someday. The American band CCR sang a fabulous song, "Someday Never Comes." Don't believe John Fogerty. Someday will come!
Till then, I will ask you to please read the materials in the links at the end of my articles and be content with my descriptions. In my last post on Jaipur's Jantar Mantar, I mentioned that Maharaja Jai Singh II named Jaipur after him. This statement is factual. However, the Amer Fort–earlier called the Amber Fort–predates Jaipur city. In the present day, it forms part of Jaipur.
My First Visit. I stood on the roadside at the bottom of the hill.
I first visited Amer Fort in 1988 when I arranged a trip for Henry Kravis and his friends. They rode up the hill on the elephants we reserved for them. We bought new sheets to cover the elephants and cleaned the seats to prevent the seat covers from staining their designer clothes. Then, we stood on the roadside and waited for their majesties to return and pack them into their Mercedes. One member of our organizing group stayed at the entrance to the fort, holding the elephants for them. My boss instructed us not to delay their departure by a millisecond. Tech companies had not then invented mobile phones, and I am glad. Otherwise, our General Manager would call me all the time. He'd have infected me with his high blood pressure.
Mobile Phones. A Small Diversion.
I remember resisting mobile phones. Touring was blissful, and I'd disappear into the wilds of India. Of course, all this came much later–around the turn of the millennium. I had a French boss then, and one day, he burst into my little room in our office, complaining he could not reach me when I disappeared into the wilderness. A beautiful smile spread across my face while he was ranting. Then, he hovered over me and insisted I write an application addressed to him, asking for a mobile phone. Then, he signed it and took it to the admin department. Damn. He chased them till I received my horrible, shiny new Ericsson mobile phone.
I remember staring at the bally thing and telling myself, "My freedom is over." Years later, my Korean boss repeated my French boss's behavior in China and gave me a BlackBerry. Then, too, I looked down at the bally thing and said to myself, "My freedom is over."
Exploring Amer Fort. A few comments on culture and nationalism.
My sorrows have no relationship to Amer Fort. Look at the photograph at the top. I admit the editing (with Luminar Neo) is over the top. However, when you stand on the roadside at the bottom of the hillock, that's the view you have.
Many years back, the route to go up was via the road leading to the front gate. You walked if poor, stingy, or enjoyed using your legs. The rest ride the elephants and some return on the backs of the pachyderm. It is not a long, steep, or arduous walk. You walk into a large courtyard and enter the main gate–the Suraj Pol (or the Sun Gate). The rulers and armies used this courtyard to receive troops, especially those returning from battle, with their booty.
The women peeked out through latticed windows. It's crucial to remember that Mughal women had considerable freedom, especially in contrast with the Rajput women.
A commentary on the flow of culture.
In its origin, the Susawat clan ruled Amber (Amer). They were a Meena clan, an offshoot of the Bhils, who were semi-nomadic tribes. The British detested them. However, I will not go into that history: I must study more. Raja Man Singh built the fort in the sixteenth century, during Akbar's reign. The Fort's architecture is beautiful, with a smooth blend of Rajput and Mughal styles.
I want to stress this: the architects blended Rajput and Mughal styles. Now, we are strident in our nationalism. We demonize the Mughals and lionize Hindu rulers. We now use a religious brush when studying or popularizing old historical incidents. The more I read, the more I understand one fact: medieval kings did not allow religious differences to cloud their political judgment.
At the Fort
It's almost impossible to find parking on the main road at the foot of the hill, so now most visitors drive up a narrow, winding road by the side of the fort and struggle to park in the car park at the side entrance. We call this side entrance the Chand Pol or Moon Gate.
Once inside, the fort has the usual halls for public audiences (Diwan-e-Aam) and private audiences (Diwan-e-Khas). The names in brackets are of Persian/Arabic origin. Culture is like a river. Unless you impede its flow with dams and diversions or pollute it, the clean waters will flow from one region to another. This is how food habits, language, music, science, and literature flow across artificial borders and how people grow.
The Sheesh Mahal (or Palace of Mirrors) is fascinating. I remember standing there, trying to get some decent photos without other tourists or me in the frame.
Amer Fort has six sections, each with its entrance. I did not explore all of them. Time was always a scarce commodity during my trips. If you wish to explore the fort well, give yourself a few hours and visit twice at different times. Take advantage of varying light conditions. Most people avoid the monsoons, but the rainy season can be an excellent time to visit. The grass on the hills is green, and the lake at the bottom of the fort will be full. Photographing the rain falling on the water will be an excellent experience, but remember to keep your camera dry.
Standing in the central courtyards, I looked at the hill's top. The Nahargarh Fort stood proud, almost remote. It's a good time to confess: I never could differentiate the two forts–Nahargarh and Jaigarh–while viewing the hill from Amer Fort!
Also, I never discovered the tunnels connecting all the forts. The existence of these tunnels should clarify that tunneling is an old military tactic to be used when required. Tunnels must always be secret if they are to be effective.
Mirza Raja Jai Singh (1632-68) built the beautiful garden in the fort. He modeled this on the Mughal gardens, one more example of how the Rajputs and Mughals borrowed from each other. I stood on one parapet, marveling at the garden, my eyes moving from the garden to the Nahargarh Fort.
A Conclusion. My last visit: a monsoon day.
My last visit to Amer Fort was during the monsoons. We drove from Delhi to Amer Fort and back. I remember starving: we didn't have time to have lunch. Our journey back was excruciating: the blinding rain ensured we returned home close to midnight. I felt like a starving, conquering hero, returning after an arduous walk from the battlefield.
These images are from that day's visit. The overcast sky was beautiful, creating a different mood than a sunny day. I want to end with a closing remark: Light, shadow, and clouds combine to make photography stories. The possibilities are endless. Remember this point.